Boat Drinks - A State of Mind

Introduction by William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill

It's January, the days are short and the weather up north less than cool; the time of year when looking for relief from the winter doldrums, cabin fever and the blues from lack of sunshine descend upon a once vibrant summer soul.  It's time to go where the weather is easy, the water refreshing and the sunshine a rejuvenation.

Boat Drinks are often part of the "flight from sight" equation this time of year, but more than Margaritas, Pina Coladas and Rum highballs, Boat Drinks is a "state of mind".  As Jimmy Buffet will tell you, it's that time of year when you "gotta' go where it's warm, where everything is right, the pace is slow and there ain't no snow."   I have to agree as I ponder the chill and darkness which becomes the tyranny of winter to a summer loyalist.

Now is the time for all the pale, pasty, sorry excuses for water lovin', land bound scallywags to get away. If you can't flee to paradise, you've still got Boat Drinks. It's only a "state of mind" after all. Be of hearty spirit mateys! Spring is not that far away. 

William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill is the author of the book, Lubber's Log published by Llumina Press; a boating primer and adventure story about a couples experiences in moving up to a bigger boat.  

You can visit his website here.

Flag Placement Basics for Recreational Boaters

Article by William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill

Flag placement has its foundation in the historical maritime traditions and codes of the merchant ships and navies of the world.  It can be quite intricate and involved, but it's more than most recreational boaters need to know. A full immersion in the steeped conventions of the use of flags on the high seas is rarely necessary in close range of a coastal marina or anchorage.

I don't think I'm alone when I see the confusion that still exists where this tradition in recreational boating is concerned.  Whatever the reason, boaters  might need a little clarification in view of the vagaries on the subject.  To be sure, there are a myriad of types of maritime flags with distinguishing marks and shapes, but in this discussion I'll narrow the field to recreational boats, power and sail, and focus on the basic rules of flag placement.

THE ENSIGN

The most senior position for a flag on a vessel is at its stern.  It was customary during the Roman Empire for Roman ships to carry small religious statues or puppis on the aft deck section of a ship; a sacred spot reserved for worship. You've probably heard the term "poop deck" which is the deck that forms the roof of a cabin built in the rear part of the superstructure of a ship at its stern.  The stern became regarded as a place of authority and respect in the generations that followed; it was where the captain's quarters could be found.  It continues to be a place of honor on a vessel to this day and it's where the national flag or derivative of it can be proudly displayed. 

The ensign, the national colors, is rectangular in design, often a 1:2 or 3:5 ratio of width to length.  It should be flown from a staff off the stern unless it interferes with the operation of the vessel like a boom that extends over the stern.  Should this be the case it can be flown from a backstay from the aftermost mast, at the peak of the gaff* or the leech** of an aftermost sail.  (see terminology below)

The ensign should be flown, according to tradition, between 8:00 a.m. and sunset.  If you plan to leave your boat and don't expect to return before sunset you should take it down; the ensign should never be flown at night.

A few examples of ensigns flown in the western hemisphere are the following:

The United States

The 50-star national flag, "Old Glory", the Stars and Stripes

The U.S. Yacht Ensign, a fouled anchor in a circle of 13 stars

The United Kingdom 

The "Union Jack", the national flag, with its 3 superimposed red and white crosses on a blue background is reserved for warships.

The "Red Ensign", the flag of less engaging maritime traditions, is the ensign for recreational boaters.  It's a red flag with the "Union Jack" displayed in the upper left quadrant.

Canada

The Maple Leaf, the national flag, is the preferred ensign for all Canadian vessels. It consists of two vertical bands of red with a red maple leaf centered and emblazoned on a white background

THE BURGEE

The burgee is usually triangular in shape, your typical pennant, adorned with the distinguishing characteristics of the yacht club or boating organization it represents.  The burgee takes the next most senior position on a vessel, usually the main masthead or starboard spreader or backstays.  In a powerboat, the burgee flies off a short staff on the bow.  It can be flown both while underway and at anchor.

THE COURTESY FLAG

Courtesy flags are generally flown in foreign waters or in waters in which you are a guest; they are a token of respect.  On a sailboat its flown on the boat's starboard spreader. If your burgee is on the starboard spreader you can move it to the masthead.  In a powerboat it's displayed on a bow staff displacing the burgee which could be placed on the portside spreader or antenna.

Courtesy Flag for the Bahamas

FLAG DIMENSIONS

How much flag do I need?  How much flag is too much? The rule to follow for a proper size ensign is one inch for every foot of overall boat length (LOA).  So, if your boat is 30 feet in length your ensign should be a minimum of 30 inches long.  If it's not, the rule is to round up to the next available size.  All other flags:  burgees, courtesies and others should be approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch for every foot of overall boat length (LOA).  So if your boat is 30 feet in length, your flag should be 15-19 inches long.  For recreational boaters we'll keep it simple:  all flags should be approximately 1/2  the size of the ensign.

That's it.  Pretty simple, huh?  Flag placement isn't as complicated as many make it out to be.  Knowing what flag is what and what flag goes where is all you need to know.  Remember, national colors to the stern, the most important place on a boat with burgees and courtesy flags to starboard for sailors, to the bow for power. Any questions?

Terminology (see asterisks above):

*Gaff: the outer end of the spar(a sailing ship's mast, boom or yard) extending aft from the main mast.

**Leech: The vertical back edge of a sail.

William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill is the author of the book, Lubber's Log published by Llumina Press; a boating primer and adventure story about a couples experiences in moving up to a bigger boat.  

You can visit his website here.

Are Marine Grade Products Worth the Price?

Introduction by William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill

How true it the old adage, "you get what you pay for?  Not absolutely true, but a big consideration in your pursuit of a quality product that will serve your needs at the best price. In the case of marine products, an argument could be made in favor of using only "marine grade" in a saltwater environment, but what about fresh water?  Does the same assumption apply there?  Can you get a better product at a reasonable price?  After all, cost comparisons with similar non-marine items like refrigerators, deck hardware, folding chairs and plumbing supplies cost a good deal less, so why not go with the lower cost item and save some money?

I my opinion and experience, marine products should be preferred to non-marine anytime the product you are buying will be exposed to the elements or serving various uses in a moving vessel on a body of water, any body of water.  Marine products aren't simply made of non-corrosive materials, they're built with safety, utility and functionality in mind.

Doug and his wife Brenda of Boating With Dawsons, write seasonal articles informing boaters of new products,  providing useful tips on such things as upholstery, teak, boat utilities, enhancements, marine maintenance and repair.  In the following article from their website Doug shares his experience and his opinions as to  why "marine products" are the better choice for boaters.

Article by Doug Dawson

Having been in the marine industry all my life, I know the difference between marine parts and non-marine parts whether they are for your engine, cabin or on decks.  For over a half a century, our marine store sold and our service department installed a whole range of genuine marine products for boats.

                                                          THE DIFFERENCE 
 The first difference most people cite between marine and non-marine products is the price.  Marine products are more expensive, but there's good reason for that.  I can assure you that it's not the marine store trying to squeeze out a bigger margin. Marine products are designed specifically for boats.  Functionality, durability, fit and utility are what make marine products a better choice for boaters. 

Non-marine products, on the other hand are not built or designed with the boater in mind.  They will work, but not nearly as well or as long as products made specifically for marine use.  This is because they may not have the required safety features necessary for safe boating; the securing brackets, electrical breakers or non-corrosive characteristics necessary for a marine environment. They are likely to cause more problems than they are worth.

When my wife Brenda was a young girl and was involved in her father's television business she learned a valuable lesson in Zenith's motto: "Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten."  This is especially true in boating.  Paying a little more up front for quality marine parts could end up costing less in the long run and serve you far better.  It's like most other things in life, "you get what you pay for."  Here are some examples of where marine products can make a difference.

                                                      MARINE REFRIGERATOR
A marine fridge is designed with a door locking catch so the door won't open and spill the contents all over the galley in rough seas and it has brackets to hold the unit in place. Another great feature is that it's built in  standard sizes for standard sized openings on most boats so you won't have to pay for a custom installation.  Parts are made of stainless steel to deter moisture and prevent corrosion.  Some have integrated evaporators and most have either stops on the front of the shelves to keep them from falling out or have drawers.  They're designed to give you more product in less space.

They run on either 12/24 Volts DC or the combination of 12 volts DC and 110-120 Volts AC giving you more flexibility when cruising.  Better insulation, size of compressor, use of non-flammable refrigerant are all taken into consideration when designing a marine fridge as well as the option to use water or air cooling to rid heat generated by the refrigeration unit. They're engineered  to operate under rough conditions while underway, built to withstand violent movement, operate noiselessly and most importantly, consume an absolute minimum of battery power.  


As an aside:  if you're considering using a 110-120 Volt refrigeration unit instead of a 12/24 Volt unit to run it off an inverter, be sure to do your homework.  You need to be sure you'll have enough battery power to operate your fridge for the length of your stay on the water where shore power is not an option.


                                                    MARINE SINK HARDWARE
Buy marine taps, faucets and drains for the head and or galley.  True, it's easy and inexpensive to pick up a set of taps from your local discount store or building supply to replace your aged or out of fashion faucets, but all too often, they're not made of a non-corrosive material making them unsuitable for a boat installation.  Also, the mechanism for lifting the drain are different on a boat and the under sink space is much more confined than the typical residential bathroom.  Check out the sink hardware carefully before purchasing.  You'll probably find it less expensive in the long run if you buy from your local marina, ships store or boating supply.


                                                           MARINE HEADS
Charging the holding tank with holding tank chemicals not only reduces the odor, but also "works" in the tank to breakdown the sewage and paper.  When repairing a toilet, buy genuine parts for your make and model or you could face some smelly consequences.  Some boaters who have repaired toilets with the wrong parts have been punished unmercifully with the condition worsening and the corrective surgery costly.  You've heard the expression, "s_ _ t happens".  Don't let it happen in your bilge.  Buy the right marine parts and be sure to have them installed properly.

MARINE DECK CHAIRS

Deck chairs are a necessary purchase to accommodate guests on most larger cruisers and yachts.  Deck chairs should fold and stow easily, have a lower center of gravity for stability with rubber, non-skid feet to prevent sliding.  Non-marine home patio chairs for example, generally are too high with the feet too close together to offer any stability.  Again, there are no rubber feet on home chairs which could cause an unsafe situation where passengers and crew could slide across the deck in rough water. For the safety of your crew and guests, proper marine deck chairs are the best seat on deck.

MARINE HARDWARE

Boat hardware should be stainless steel or marine grade plastic so it won't corrode or deteriorate.  Installing aluminum or cheap fittings will look dreadful after a year or so, and may stop being functional all together, requiring a repair or total replacement.  If you find yourself having to replace hardware every year or two, doesn't it make sense to spend a little more to get the right marine grade the first time?  Buy it right, buy it once.

                                                  MARINE CLEANING PRODUCTS
Washing the boat with the wrong product can shorten the life of the paint and/or gelcoat. Be sure to use marine cleaning products to extend the life of your finish.


If areas have soot/exhaust stains from the engines or stains around through the hull fittings (A/C outlets, cooling water outlets, etc.) find a product at your local marine supplier that is made for that specific purpose or you may irreparably harm the finish.


If you ever get oil and sludge in your bilge, try the marine absorbent pads to soak up and dispose of them according to your local environmental regulations. 

Keep in mind, all marine cleaning products should be used according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Some work better than others so do your research before buying.

BUY MARINE, BUY ONCE

These are only a few examples, there are many more. Most  mariners could rattle off at least a  handful of horror stories resulting from the use of marine substitutes.  When you consider what these products have over their counterparts, doesn't  it makes sense to go marine?  Even though it may cost a bit more in the beginning, it usually costs less in the long run.  Like I said earlier in this post, "buy right, buy once" for hassle-free boating.

On their website,  Boating With Dawsons,  the couple share tips and tricks to help make your boating easier and more enjoyable.

William L. Gills aka Bos'n Bill is the author of the book, Lubber's Log published by Llumina Press; a boating primer and adventure story about a couples experiences in moving up to a bigger boat.  

You can visit his website here.